Hiking Japanese style

Today was wonderful. After spending the night in a tiny hotel in Kii Tanabe we got up early for a crazy breakfast of bread, yoghurt, pancetta, strawberries and sausages. On the one plate. After shuffling our luggage to the right spot (which involved wheeling our big cases about 5km round town til we found the right place) we were off on the bus to the Kumano Kudo Trail. Well those crazy Japs know eff all about showing correct elevation on their maps. Fark! Talk about mountains? Really really steep hills relentlessly rolling in one after the other. Despite lots and lots of walking in the big cities, this was exactly what I wanted. For the first time I felt totally relaxed. I felt like someone who had stole something at Tokyo train station running about two km for that bullet train. What an experience!!! But today was so beautiful and peaceful and fun, I just loved every bit of it. For lunch we stopped at a town with about five buildings, it was tiny, with one Ryoken and a vending machine....but the "runch of the day" was amazing. Oh my god these people know all about fresh food. Mountain vegetables, all fresh and totally yummy, chicken, rice, best lunch so far. I say that every day though. Hiked on for about 17km to arrive at the tiny rural village where we would spend the night. Room with futons on the floor, bean pillows and mats on the floor. Dinner was spectacular by the river with the windows open, sitting on the floor. Things lije a whole fish (i ate the head, the tail, the lot). Bath after in the hot springs (yes Joh I nuded up!!) and felt warm for hours after, like being in a sauna. Hair and other bits smell totally wonderful. Tomorrow is 25km and having a closer peek the elevation is kind if scary. But it was so lovely today, challenging enough without wanting it to be over. And the shrines and things to see in the way were fascinating. We even had some running, we found ourselves on a really steep hill but it was all pine needles and soft bark underfoot so we ran down it giggling and laughing and generally being silly.
Sitting here beer in hand, kimono on, wondering how my life has suddenly become so rich and full of wonderful people and experiences. The funny thing is, the people have always been here, I just wasn't paying attention....